Two Parks Less Traveled

We set out mid-morning ready to squeeze every last drop out of our time in the Rockies. On our way to the parks, we saw the spiral tunnels that we experienced on the Rocky Mountaineer – only this time, from the road below!

Our first stop in Yoho (the indigenous Cree’s word for “in awe”) was at Emerald Lake. Its shimmering green surface reflects the dense pine forests and rugged mountain peaks that surround it. The lake gets its striking color from the fine glacial flour suspended in the water, in the same way that gives Lake Louise and Moraine their iconic hues. There were several groups out paddling in bright red canoes; the atmosphere remained quiet and peaceful. Quite honestly, we’ve been spoiled by how many incredibly beautiful lakes we’ve seen in recent days, it was difficult to appreciate this one.

We enjoyed a leisurely hike along the shoreline and, as we were heading out, we noticed this relic near the lake’s main entrance! We noticed several younger tourists staring at it, wondering what it was!

Just a short drive from the lake, we made it to Natural Bridge. The Kicking Horse River has carved a powerful path right through solid limestone and the force of the water is unreal as it surges through a narrow canyon below.

Next up was Takakkaw Falls, one of Canada’s tallest waterfalls, and easily one of the most dramatic sights we saw all trip. But getting there involved driving up a mountain road with crazy insane hairpin turns and switchbacks that would challenge the most experienced bus driver! Not sure how any large tour buses could even attempt this drive, but Taylor handled our large van with ease.

The Cree word, “Takakkaw,” means “it is magnificent,” and that’s exactly what came to mind as we hiked up to the base. The waterfall is fed by the Daly Glacier and plunges an astonishing 1,224 feet. We got soaked from the mist just walking along the trail toward it, but it was totally worth it.

On the drive between these sites, we passed massive avalanche paths — wide, treeless scars on the mountainsides where snow has thundered down in the winter months, flattening everything in its way. Seeing them up close made us appreciate just how dynamic and unpredictable this landscape is.

We crossed into Kootenay National Park and continued to Marble Canyon, easily the favorite spot of our day. A hiking trail took us across a series of wooden bridges that zigzag and ascend over a narrow, deep gorge carved by the blue-green Tokumm Creek.

The water rushed far below, slicing through the limestone and dolomite rock, and creating a canyon that feels impossibly narrow and deep. While it was quite a warm day, you are immediately hit with a dramatically cooler breeze as you start your hike toward the canyon’s head.

The layers of rock, the swirling water, and the damp air felt like stepping into another world. Standing there, it was hard not to think about how long it must’ve taken for water to shape rock in this way. A reminder that nature is both patient and persistent.

Massive boulders, once carried great distances by glacial ice and left behind as the ice sheets retreated thousands of years ago, are called glacial erratic rocks. What makes them so unique is that they often look very different from the surrounding bedrock, since they originated from faraway places. Their weathered layers tell a story of nature’s great forces at work. We passed this one near one of the last bridges we crossed.

By the time we returned to Banff that evening, we were exhausted, yet grateful for what we’ve been able to experience. Yoho and Kootenay offered a different kind of beauty – less polished, more raw. If you’re planning a trip to the Canadian Rockies, don’t skip these parks. They are worth the visit for sure.

Taylor dropped us off in town and we enjoyed our final evening with an early dinner at Three Bears Brewing (nice atmosphere, especially the upper balcony seating, but the food was average – we enjoyed the other restaurants far more).

After dinner, we packed and made an early night of it. We left the hotel early on Friday and drove to Calgary for our flights home (thanks again to Radventures for our transfer – fantastic tour company that we highly recommend!). While on the 90-minute drive, we received three delays from American Airlines. It’s really sad that this is the new normal of travel today – expect delays and cancelations. So very frustrating.

While Canada wasn’t the highest on our bucket list of travel destinations, it was definitely a place we wanted to visit someday. We’re so glad we decided to venture here this summer. We had such an incredible time, saw some of the most beautiful scenery imaginable, and enjoyed the journey with dear friends.

If Canada is on your list, I hope our journal of experiences helps you plan your visit soon.

Signing off, until our next adventure…Paris and a Christmas Markets cruise on the Rhine in December!