Gems of the Rhine

Our destination Thursday morning was Koblenz, a historic city that sits at the famous Deutsches Eck (“German Corner”) where the Rhine and Moselle rivers meet, and a crossroads that has shaped the city for more than 2,000 years. The Romans established a military post here in 9 BC, making Koblenz one of the oldest cities in Germany.

Towering high above the city is the massive Ehrenbreitstein Fortress that was rebuilt in the early 1800s on the site of earlier fortifications dating back to medieval times. It’s one of the largest preserved fortresses in Europe.

Koblenz has an eclectic architectural mix of buildings that date back centuries to those constructed in a very utilitarian post-World War II style. The Jesuit Square in the heart of the old town is lined with stately Baroque buildings with narrow medieval lanes leading toward the Church of Our Lady, which dates back to the 5th century.

As we walked through the streets of town, our tour guide Thomas stopped to show us small metal squares – called stumbling stones – inlaid in the sidewalk. Created by artist Gunter Demnig, the stumbling stones contain the names, birth/death dates, and location of death of residents of Koblenz who were victims of the Holocaust and murdered by the Nazis during WWII. The location of each metal square signifies the building or house where each victim once lived. Prior to 1936, Koblenz had a Jewish population of more than 600; only 20 Jewish residents were alive after 1945. Stumbling stones were inspired by the Jewish saying, “A person is only forgotten when their name is forgotten.” Koblenz is not the only place to have these stones; they exist in other cities and countries across Europe, but this was the first time we learned of them.

After our short walking tour, we explored the small but quaint Christmas market, before heading back to the boat.

The afternoon was spent cruising along the Rhine and we entered the stretch known for its numerous castles and charming riverside towns. We tried to capture as many as we could, although the weather was not cooperating with us.

We docked in Rüdesheim in the late afternoon, where we were taken by a charming street trolley to the hilly town center. This small wine town in the Upper Middle Rhine Valley is best known for its vineyards, half-timbered houses, and the famously narrow Drosselgasse, a cobblestone lane packed with wine taverns and music halls. Their market, named “Weihnachtsmarkt der Nationen,” features stalls with international traditions and treats from dozens of countries. After sampling the glühwein and checking out several of the stands, we grabbed dinner at a local cafe with plans to finish our market shopping afterward. Little did we know that this lovely little town rolls up its sidewalks early! The markets were closing by the time we finished our meal. We stopped to enjoy some local singers – performing on stage directly next to the town’s nativity – before grabbing a taxi and heading back to the boat.

Docked in Rüdesheim overnight, Friday morning’s activity included a visit to Reinweinwelt, a local wine tasting room to taste varieties of what this region of Germany is known for – its rieslings. I’ve been dealing with a case of insomnia this trip, so I opted to stay back and catch up on sleep while Mark participated in the tour. Luckily, he brought two delicious bottles back for us to enjoy with our dinner.

The afternoon brought us to yet another town on the Rhine, Mainz. We opted for the short drive to nearby Wiesbaden, and we’re so glad we did. One of Germany’s oldest spa towns, Wiesbaden was beloved by Roman emperors and, later, European aristocracy for its thermal springs, many of which still flow today. The city’s Christmas market was set in front of the beautiful and stately red-hued, neo-Gothic Marktkirche and the Palace Square. It was one of the larger markets we’ve visited on this trip, and twinkling lights throughout the trees and hanging above the stalls made it particularly charming.

Our longest stretch along the Rhine was made overnight, as we increased our speed and traveled to Germersheim. We awoke Saturday and headed via bus to nearby Baden-Baden.

Baden-Baden wrapped up our experience with a sense of old-world glamour. Tucked at the edge of the Black Forest, this beautiful town is known for its rich Belle Époque architecture and thermal baths. The town is also famous for its beautifully ornate Kurhaus – an entertainment complex that includes a casino, concert hall, nearby thermal baths, and sprawling gardens.

Its charming Christmas market stretches along the Kurhaus colonnades and spa gardens and was one of the largest and best we’ve visited since leaving Cologne. We explored the stalls and enjoyed a bratwurst and some glüwein, making a great afternoon out of this cold, dreary and foggy day.

Tomorrow, we say auf wiedersehen to Germany and bon jour to France as we visit the lovely Strasbourg.