Hallo, Schönes Basel, Schweiz!

Monday’s dawn brought us our first sunny day! We awoke in Basel, Switzerland, a city that sits gracefully at the meeting point of three countries – Switzerland, France, and Germany. Known as “the museum capital of Switzerland,” Basel is home to 40 museums and hosts its annual Art Basel, and internationally-acclaimed art fair. Basel also has a strong pharmaceutical, chemical, and financial presence in its bustling business district.

We began with a short city tour through Grossbasel, or “Big Basel,” the historic old town on the south side of the Rhine. (Ironically, Big Basel is actually smaller than its counterpart, “Small Basel,” which is the larger, more modern and commercial part of the city.)

Cobblestone streets, colorful guild houses, and medieval courtyards and squares set the tone as we wandered past landmarks that quietly reveal Basel’s long history as a trading hub and university city. Founded in 1460, the University of Basel is Switzerland’s oldest and has attracted famous thinkers over the centuries, including Erasmus of Rotterdam, a humanist, scholar, and theologian famous for speaking out against the corruption of the Catholic Church.

The highlight of the old town is Basel Minster, the striking red-sandstone cathedral perched above the Rhine. Built between the 11th and 15th centuries, its mix of Roman and Gothic architecture, twin towers, and patterned roof tiles make it one of the city’s most recognizable sights. Basel’s old town feels intimate yet sophisticated, with layers of history woven into everyday life.

Our guide shared one of the craziest traditions that occurs here in the heat of the summer. It’s an after-work ritual that unfolds right in the middle of the Rhine. As the workday ends, businesspeople change into swimsuits, slip into the river and let the visibly strong current carry them downstream toward their home. Their clothes, phones, and briefcases are tucked into brightly colored waterproof dry bags, known locally as Wickelfisch, which double as flotation aids as they swim. It’s part commute, part social hour, and entirely normal here. We decided a return trip to Basel in the summer is warranted just to witness this!

After the obligatory stroll through the Christmas markets surrounding the cathedral, we headed back to the boat, and spent the afternoon packing.

Our Uniworld Elizabeth crew and Inspirato team hosted a farewell toast in the lounge prior to dinner, complete with a serenade of Christmas carols by the crew. Our favorite crew member, the delightful Maggi, was front and center with her beautiful smile radiating the place. At dinner afterward, conversations with our dear friends continued, and Kathy and I laughed until our sides hurt.

Tuesday, we said our goodbyes, disembarked, and made our way to the Hotel Markhof, a quintessentially Swiss hotel in the heart of Big Basel, for one night’s stay. Waiting for our room to be ready gave us an opportunity to explore the area further. During the holidays, neighborhoods through the old town decorate their courtyards and we stumbled upon a few of these beautiful displays. We also discovered this delightful Christmas tree in the median of a street where locals could write a Christmas wish or blessing and attach it to the tree. Passersby would stop, read several of the attached messages, smile, and then continue on their way. A really lovely sentiment to the season.

A Google recommendation led us to Schnabel, a traditional Basel pub, for lunch and we are so glad it did! The restaurant was filled with locals and a great vibe. We landed on two house favorites for lunch – the Wurst mit Zwiebelsoße serviert mit Rösti for Mark (bratwurst with onion gravy and a creamy hash-brown potato dish). I opted for the simply named “Falsche Schneken,” or faux snails. These deliciously decadent cubes of grilled beef were cleverly served in an escargot dish, each swimming in a Café de Paris sauce, and served alongside Pomme Frites. One of the simplest and best meals of the trip.

On our way back to the hotel, we took a random cut-through alley and were treated to an incredible mural depicting generations of musical artists.

After a lovely evening and restful sleep (I highly recommend Hotel Markhof), we spent Wednesday morning visiting Basel’s Kunstmuseum, the oldest municipal art gallery in the world. Established in 1661, the museum includes a vast collection of Swiss art, Impressionism, and Modernism. An absolute gem of a museum, and one that should be on your list if you visit this quaint town. We were impressed by the variety of works on display, including significant collections by Picasso and Giacometti. One exhibit in particular caught our attention – in the late 1930s, the museum acquired a significant group of 21 paintings that the Nazi regime had condemned as “degenerate.” These paintings could possibly have been destroyed or lost forever if not for the forward-thinking museum curator.

Our time on the Rhine has come to an end, as we take the train back to Paris this evening for a quick, overnight stay near the Charles de Galle airport for our Thursday morning flight home. It’s been a lovely journey filled sights, sounds, and memories made alongside friends. Until our next international adventure, our wanderlust cup is full!

Schöne Feiertage euch allen!